The Meat Consultant

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Going against convention

When it comes to the world of charcuterie, people tend to gravitate towards the most popular items and places such as Jamon Iberico or Parma Ham. While great for the world of ham, there’s a clear lack of education when it comes to understanding what else can be achieved with ham. 

The Meat Consultant culminated in an idea that flavours shouldn’t be limited to the basics. This means getting away from the conventional way of thinking and the old ways while introducing newer and more modern techniques to allow for more unique and exquisite flavours to emerge. The first piece I made, which just so happens to be the most popular, Sichuan Peppercorn Duck Prosciutto is an example of this. Unless you’ve been spending a long time in France (specifically in the South West region), you would never think of a simple duck breast being capable of being such a treat. Instead of purely making it the same way as they do in the old country, I ran with the idea of adding different spices (with the help and advice of friends) and what resulted was an amazing serenade of mouth water duck oils being countered by the numbing properties of Sichuan peppercorns. 

This piece was originally commissioned by a Japanese restaurant for their sake pairings: a Kagoshima Pork Loin marinated in shiro miso paste and seaweed powder. This is to complement the sweeter taste of Japanese pork (due to their diet of rice husks) an inject a bit more salt and umami.

Since I didn’t start with something conventional, I was allowed to explore more options outside the realms of what was considered normal. This meant making use of regular household spice mixes while reading up on different combinations of herbs and spices that would highlight different aspects of meats when dried. What this meant was that there were failures; a lot of failures. Everything ranging from Pancetta made with Tom Yum Spices to air dried sujiko (salmon roe in its own sack) that I tried to make as Bottarga. It was a royal screw up of grand standards. 

However, because of the continual experimentations, I was able to understand a little more about the different aspects of the industry that no book could teach me unless I deliberately looked for it. For example, in my experience, local Hong Kong pigs are actually not so great when it comes to the production of ham. I went to visit a local establishment who focuses on sustainable farms in Yuen Long. Their feed is consistent, which is actually something good. However, whatever they were feeding the pigs turned the pork into a culinary equivalent of cardboard. It tasted horrible and I immediately threw my finished piece straight into the trash. 

While this may be something that they teach you in culinary school, I was not so lucky enough to be able to join. But I am thankful because it allowed me to be unconstrained by conventional methods and techniques while giving me the reins to explore at my own pace. 

The reason for all of this is that I want to give everyone out there the opportunity to explore what can be possible with the world of ham through their own palates instead of comparing it to what is already out there. In 2022, one of the grander goals is to start an omakase for ham that will consist of just ham along with a wine pairing that will allow each guest to experience everything from fish, poultry, lamb, pork and eventually beef in curated exhibition for the senses. With this, I want everyone who is able to experience this to come on this journey with me to go against convention and explore what can be possible.