Experiments with Beef
Charcuterie has always been an experience laden with images of fancy charcuterie boards filled with salami, prosciutto and the occasional slices of Iberico ham but rarely is it ever seen with beef. There is one famous example: the humble Bresaola. This Italian style air dried beef has always been a staple of what is offered in terms of beef fanfare but rarely does it ever evolve past it's simple taste and satisfaction.
Outside of dry aging, there hasn't been much conclusive information about beef charcuterie. Only in recent years has it seen an emergence in the form of Wagyu salumi - where it is minced with added pork fat. The reason for lack of readily available documentation is because of the general opinion that cured beef provides no added flavour evolution when compared to pork. While this is definitely up for debate as everyone's tastes are different I decided to put it to the test myself with a dip in the shallow end with a simple coffee cured Bresaola.
What was the result? A sumptuous surprise for sure. It was sweet and yet so delicate. While pork tends to intensify in flavour when cured, this piece of beef didn't really intensify as it really mellowed out. It was different and the coffee grains infused a flavour that would pair well as an aperitif for sure.
Despite this, my curiosity was not sated. I wanted to try something new and my compulsiveness drive me to the local butcher to ask for a piece of Wagyu sirloin. It was an expensive test as it was far more expensive than what I normally work with. With sweaty palms, I started the curing process and didn't look back.
The benefits of working with a cut that normally would be associated with a steak cut portion of meat is that it didn't take long to see the end result. What came out was a surprise. The color was horrid as I did not use any sodium nitrite (the special sauce to keep meat that reddish pink hue while drying) but the taste was something unique. My friends complained about the excessive use of rosemary but what intrigued me was that the fat created a sensation that drove my mind to the numerous possibilities of cured beef options.
Fast forward a few months and I pulled out a cured Wagyu rump that was a little under in terms of weight loss. Normally, weight loss is about 30% - 40% depending on the piece that you’re working on. This was significantly below the target. However, the first slice said it all. It was dripping in its natural fats that exuded an aroma that can only be described as “rich and beefy”. It didn’t have the overwhelming funkiness of a dry age steak but it graced the senses in a way that “rich and beefy” are the only words that I can use to describe it.
After trying it and giving some willing testers a piece, they all came back to the same conclusion. It was confusingly agreeable in a way that you could repeat that same feeling until you’re left with nothing but an empty plate. With the opinions of friends, family, people in the F&B industry showing surprise and praise, this is something I know that I will keep experimenting with and aspire to keep exciting the palate with. If there’s ever any new pieces of Wagyu Rumpetto, I suggest you buy one and share it with only the closest of friends and family.
